After a years research and contact with 13 companies , both large and small, I
decided on Uganda Luxury Eco Tours . This is a small local company which kept to my brief :
To see as many different birds as possible , visit a wide range of habitats and see
gorillas and chimpanzees in the wild . I was impressed with depth of their knowledge
of birds and where to see them. They always replied promptly to my endless questions
and I was impressed by their professional approach .
Deo Muhumuza , the owner of the company and an excellent birder , was my guide . He
was very ably assisted by Brian Tuhaise our driver , who is also a talented
freelance bird guide in his own right.
Day 1 . I arrived early morning at Entebbe Airport and was met and driven 15 minutes
to the Lake Victoria View Guesthouse for a two night stay . Good Wifi and great view
of lake. The garden yielded 20 different birds in as many minutes, including close
views of Ross's Turaco and Double-Toothed Barbet . We spent the rest of the day in
the nearby Botanical Gardens and the adjoining lakeside. Birds seen included ;
Marino , Red-chested and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds ; Black&White Casqued Hornbill ;
Red-chested Cuckoo ; Woodland Kingfisher; Yellowbill and several different Weavers .
92 different birds in total.
Day 2 . 5:30 breakfast then 50 km drive to Mabamba wetland . This was a great site
with a wide range of water birds. Well organised and comfortable canoe ride through
wetlands giving close up views of the birds. Recent rains meant higher than normal
water levels so Shoebills were further away from the channels and we failed to see
one. However many good birds seen : African and Lesser Jacana , Black Crake , Black
Heron, Pygmy Goose, Allen's Gallinule , and Saddle-billed Stork.
Late afternoon we visited Lutembe Bay for the second canoe ride of the day .
Unfortunately this was a less productive and uncomfortable trip, you need a cushion
for the hard wooden seat. The only birds of interest were a single African Skimmer
and Grey-headed Gulls .
Day 3 . 6:30 set off for Mabira Forest via Kampala usually a 2hr drive but heavy
rain and rush hour traffic meant we arrived at 10:30 so only had 90 mins
birdwatching. This was a pity as the forest is home to over 300 species of birds. I
did see 19 new birds including: Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Dusky Long-tailed
Woodpecker, Red-headed Malimbe , Little Green Sunbird, White-spotted Flufftail ,
Blue-shouldered Robin-Chat.
We then drove to Jinja for lunch then onto Tororo, stopping on the way at the
Kibimba Rice Scheme, where Deo arranged with an official for us to drive around the
fields. This was an excellent end to our day. We saw : Moustached Grass Warbler,
Red-throated Pipit , African Crake , Yellow-billed Storks,African Spoonbills and a
large group of dancing Grey Crowned Cranes. A wonderful sight in soft orange light
of dusk .
Dinner and overnight at Prime hotel Tororo were both unmemorable . Wifi in dining area.
Day 4 . Drive to Lake Bisina and surroundings. The area north of the lake was very
fruitful with over 30 new birds, including: Grey-headed Kingfisher, Shikra ,
Black-crowned Tchagra, Abyssinian Roller, Beautiful Sunbird, Holaub's Golden Warbler
, Namaqua and Vinaceous Doves , Piapiac , Upcher's Warbler, Senegal Coucal .
Late afternoon we took a canoe ride on the Lake looking unsuccessfully for the
endemic Fox's Warbler . The ride was spoiled by a heavy shower and hard seats , even
without the rain I think our time would have been better spent birding around the
lake. We did see a Red-knobbed Coot and Osprey on the lake and a Little Bittern and
flock of Black-crowned Night Herons on return to the shore.
Dinner and overnight at the Akello hotel Soroti . No a/c in room , holes in mosquito
net and failure to provide an early breakfast as requested made this the poorest
accommodation of the trip . Along with Tororo the only 2 unsatisfactory nights of
the trip.
Day 5 . Long drive to Kidepo Valley NP in northeast corner of Uganda, birding on the
way . We made good time on the "brown " roads and saw many birds , particularly
birds of prey: Fox Kestrel, Common Buzzard, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Pallid Harrier ,
Black-breasted Snake Eagle , Battelur , Montague's Harrier and Lesser Kestrel . Also
of note were Fan-tailed Ravens, Red pate Cisticola , White-rumped Shrike,
Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, White-throated Bee-eater, Hemprch's Hornbill.
Late afternoon we entered the park and saw the first "game "of the trip: Oribi ,
Hartebeast, Wart-hog, Reed Buck, Dik Dik , Water Buck, Ugandan Kob , Cape Buffalo
and Elephant. Birds seen included: Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Lappet-faced Vulture,
Clapperton's Francolin and Grey-headed Social Weaver.
We stayed 3 nights at the Apoka Bandas . These are round traditional style huts ,
with solid walls , a thatched roof and en-suit facilities . Which provided for a
very enjoyable stay. The proposed night drive did not happen as the park does not
provide a spotlight ,but there was the sounds of lions and owls during the night.
Food was local and plentiful including delicious fresh fruit, hearty packed lunch as
well if you could manage it.
Day 6 . Birding the northern sector of the park in our comfortable Toyota Ladcruiser
with the roof up for 360 viewing. We traveled close to the borders of South Sudan
and Kenya in search of local species. Birds seen included: Denham's , and
Black-bellied Bustard's , White-headed Buffalo Weaver, Red-billed Hornbill,
Ostriches, African White-backed, White-headed and Ruppell's Griffon, Vultures ,
Rufous Chatterer, Nubian woodpecker, Bru Bru , Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Little
Bee-eater, Crested Francolin, Yellow-bellied Eremomela , White-crested Turaco ;
Black-breasted , Spot-flanked, D'Arnaud's and , Red and Yellow Barbets. We also saw
Rock Hyrax and Bush Dyker.
We arrived back late afternoon just before a downpour, which flooded several tracks
and delayed others returning to the Bandas , good timing on our part.
Day 7 . Birding the southern sector of the park. New game today included Zebras and
Giraffes. Birds included : Wahlberg's and Tawny Eagles, Grasshopper Buzzard,
Short-toed Snake Eagle , Familiar Chat , Mocking Cliff Chat, Black Bishop, African
Paradise Flycatcher (white morph) , Yellow-bellied Hyliota , Gambaga Flycatcher,
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Northern White-crowned Shrike, White-crested
Helmet-Shrike, Brown-rumped Bunting, Rufous-naped Lark . Our bird list was now over
300 .
Day 8 . After a couple of hours birding we left the park to drive to Murchison Falls
NP. Some of the new road is finished but where works continue it can be slow going.
We had a 20 km stretch with road humps every 100 m ! Next year this journey should
be much quicker. We birdied on the way with a good lunch stop at Kitgum. Birds seen
included : Western Banded Snake Eagle, White-bellied Bustard, Slate-coloured Boubou,
African Cuckoo, Heuglin's Wheatear, Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting, Black-headed
Batis.
We arrived late afternoon at Murchison to be greeted by a splendid Goliath Heron.
We stayed 3 nights at the Pakuba Safari Lodge. Excellent accommodation, great food
,efficient laundry service and very helpful and friendly staff. Wifi only in the
reception area . One note of warning. If you have a desktop fan in your room don't
aim it directly at your bed as it can blow apart the mosquito nets. I finally worked
this out on the 3rd night several bites too late !
Day 9 . We explored the northern sector of the park and with the roof up had
excellent views. Non-bird highlights were: Hyenas , Side-striped Jackals, Hippos,
Elephants , Marsh and Slender Mongoose . Birds seen included: Heuglin's Francolin,
Blue-spotted and Black-billed Wood Doves, Dierderick , Lavaillant and Pied Cuckoos,
Caspian Plover, Spotted Mourning Thrush, Chin-spot Batis , Northern Puffback, Water
Thick-knee , Black-lored Babbler, White-winged Black Tit, Yellow Bishop,
Fawn-breasted Waxbill and White-headed Barbet. However the best bird of the trip so
far was seen late morning in the Delta area about 100 m from the car . Standing in
the open in clear sight was a Shoebill , top bird on my wish list.
Day 10 . Morning birding northern sector again , fewer new birds. We found 2
sleeping lions keeping cool in the shade of some scrub . Highlight of a slow morning
was a small grey bird which I correctly identified before either of my two guides, a
Cut-throat Finch . This turned out to be the first record for Murchison Park . Other
birds seen included: Vitalline Masked Weaver, Temminck's Courser , Steppe Eagle,
Red-throated Bee-eater and Black-rumped Waxbill.
After lunch at Paraa I took a 3 hour river trip up the Nile to the base of the
Murchison Falls. Although there was a guide on the boat he only indicated some
common species . Bird identification was down to me . The very large Nile Crocodiles
basking on the banks were very impressive. The only new birds seen on the river were
African Darter and Senegal Thick-knee . However the boat trip was memorable for :
the close views we had of animals on the river banks and shores ; the view as we
approached and moored close to the base of the Falls. I then slowly took a
challenging hike to the top of the Falls with breathtaking views along the way. The
resident Pel's fishing Owl is no longer in this area . However I was amply
compensated seeing Giant Kingfisher, Rock Pratincole on the way up and then as a
finale saw a Bat Hawk circling as I reached the top , where the 360 view was
amazing. On the ride back to the ferry at Paraa we also saw a Banded Mongoose,
Leopard Tortoise, Red-necked Falcon and Wire-tailed Swallows.
Day 11 . Early morning just after leaving the Safari Lodge we were very fortunate to
see close to the road , half way up a tree , an adult Leopard enjoying its
breakfast, a small antelope called an Oribi . A special but gruesome site .
We then continued birding the southern sector of the park into the Kanin-Pabidi
extension of the Bodongo forest reserve. During the latter section we kept all
windows closed as this is a Tsetse fly infested area. Birds seen included: Gaba
Goshawk , Eurasian Honey Buzzard, Spectacled Weaver, Snowy-crowned Robin Chat ,
Lead-coloured Tit-flycatcher , Eastern Carmine Bee-eater, African Golden Oriel ,
Semi-collared flycatcher, Pygmy Sunbird, Grey-headed Bush Shrike, Brown Babbler ,
Yellow-throated Tinkerbird , White-thighed Hornbill, Red-headed Bluebill. Plus first
sighting of Blue Monkeys. Finally as we arrived at our hotel in Masindi we saw
Red-headed Lovebirds.
We stayed 3 nights at the Kolping Hotel in Masindi . Wifi in reception area .The
accommodation was excellent but the food was the worst of the trip and after this
first evening meal we ate at the Masindi Hotel, the oldest hotel in Uganda, for the
next two evenings . Where I had very tasty Indian fare .
Day 12 . I was full of anticipation as we were birding one of " Uganda's
birdwatching hotspots " and it did not disappoint . 61 new birds seen ! We were
joined by Raymond a specialist local guide whose expertise proved invaluable. We
walked up and down the Royal Mile and along trails in the forest . Birds seen
included: Cassin's and African Crowned Hawk Eagles; African Dwarf and
Chocolate-backed Kingfishers ; Yellow and Grey Longbills, Brown Twinspot ; Little
Grey , Slender-billed, White-throated , Little and Spotted Greeenbuls ;
Scaly-breasted and Brown Illadopsis ; Grey-headed Olive-back , African Fire Finch,
Brown-eared and Yellow-crested Woodpeckers , Chestnut Wattle-eye, Fire-crested
Alethe , Forest Flycatcher, Lemon-bellied Crombec , Ituri Batis, Rufous Flycatcher
Thrush , Wilcock's Honeyguide, Western Nicator, Black Saw-wing, Yellow-browed and
Olive-green Camaropteras , Red-tailed Ant-Thrush , Black and White Mannikin ,
Village Indigobird, Cabanni's Bunting, Superb and Copper Sunbirds .
Day 13 . We set off with the intention of birding a different section of the forest
in Busingaro , however we left and returned to the Royal Mile as the area was very
quiet . Birds seen included: Scaly Francolin, White-chinned Prinia , Black-crowned
Waxbill, Violet-backed Starling, Blue-throated Roller, Black-shouldered Nightjar,
Narino Trogon ,Crested Guinea Fowl , Ashy Flycatcher, Sabine's Spinetail , Crested
Malimbe , Red-tailed Greenbul and Ugandan Wood-Warbler. We also saw a Tree Squirrel,
Red-legged Sun Squirrel and a Tree Hyrax .
Day 14 . A long drive to Kibale so limited birding opportunities but we saw some
good birds . Highlights were Finfoot and African Black Duck. Others included:
Red-collared Widowbird, African Emerald Cuckoo, Dusky-Blue and Cassin's Grey
Flycatchers, Grey-throated Barbet, Siffling Cisticola , White-eyed Slaty-Flycatcher
and Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater. On arriving at the Chimpanzee Forest Guest House we
found 3 new birds in the attractive gardens, namely : Bronze Sunbird, Brimstone
Canary and Speckle-breasted Woodpecker.
Our 2 night stay at The Chimpanzee Forest Guest House was excellent with good no
frills accommodation. There were many choices on the menu but the " local food of
the day " was a hidden delight . The Guest House also had a small gift shop
reasonably priced genuinely local products and an efficient laundry service.
Day 15 . We made an early start to be in the forest before dawn particularly to see
the Green-breasted Pitta . Our best efforts were foiled when heavy rain fell for
several hours . With the help of an experienced local guide we heard and saw the
Pitta briefly on 3 occasions. Our other hard won rewards this morning included:
White-tailed Ant-Thrush , Black-billed Turaco , Black Bee-eater, Lesser Honeyguide ,
Yellow-billed Barbet , Chestnut-winged Starling, Afep Pigeon and Grey-cheeked
Mangabey.
After lunch the weather had improved and I returned to the forest for chimp
tracking. Guests from the previous day had warned us that they had had limited
views of just a few Chimpanzees high up in the trees. After a 40 min trek we found
the chimp family and there were 5-6 moving above us in the trees , the guides then
pointed out that more chimps were arriving on the ground and soon we had about 10
chimps within 5-7 m from us on the ground. The were delightful and appeared
unworried by our presence . Two appeared to stretch out and have a nap , two females
nursed their young and an older male (approx 37 yo) sat and watched whilst we took
many photos and videos . It was a memorable end to day which had such a damp and
unpromising start . I felt very privileged to be able to spend 90 min in the
presence of such fascinating animals.
Day 16 . Morning birding in Bigodi Community Wetland, a pleasant 4 km trail . The
swamp and low scrub/secondary forest was not very productive with only 7 new birds.
The highlight was close up views of Red Colobus Monkeys. Birds seen included:
Red-headed Quelea , Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Bocage's Bush Shrike, Shining Blue
Kingfisher, White-collared Olive-back, African Goshawk and Yellow-throated Greenbul.
After lunch we drove to Fort Portal then up to surrounding hills near Lake Kigere ,
where we saw : Great Crested and Little Grebes, African Hobby, Rock Martin,
Red-rumped Swallow, Senegal Lapwing and African Stonechat.
Overnight at Rwenzori View Guest House, Wifi in dining area. Comfy, friendly place .
Excellent food eaten at large communal table with lively conversation.
Day 17 . We set off before dawn on a 90 min drive to Semliki NP . We collected
Justice, an excellent local guide from the UWA office and spent the day birding the
Kirumia trail . We trekked 4 hr into the park stopping at a large pool where we were
lucky to see a White-bellied Kingfisher. Then amazingly our hot lunch arrived
brought by a fit young man from the UWA budget camp . It was a surreal experience
sitting in the middle of the forest eating delicious local food with proper plates
and cutlery. We then retraced our steps through the forest. Birding was slow and
difficult but we saw 18 new birds including many local specialties. These included:
Piping, Black Casqued, White-crested and Red-billed Dwarf , H
